2/21/2013: Another
fantastic day of skiing. I made some changes to my approach which improved
things:
- I listened to my iPod all day, so I had Wilco in my ears instead of the cheesy Japanese pop they blare from every chairlift tower.
- I decided it didn't matter where I skied, that as long as there were trees and a decent pitch, I would get lots of powder. Yesterday I stuck to one main area, which seems to be where all the Aussies go, so it was a little tracked out.
So I had big plans
for the evening of 2/20 (after day 1 of skiing). I was going to drink beer. I
was going to get some work done. I was going to hit the onsen. Maybe do a
little night skiing, or at the very least wander around outside and get some
nice snowy night pictures. Instead, I showered, wrote a blog entry, then went
to dinner for like 2 hours and passed out afterwards. Rusutsu is an odd place,
where everything is contained within the same building (which actually isn't that odd, just really convenient). Hotel check-in, the
hotel rooms, the ski rental area, lockers, a gym, onsen, ping pong, a carousel,
an odd robotic band playing creepy "Dixie" music, and like 6
restaurants. There was a British pub, a German place, Italian, Chinese, and a
few Japanese places I think. I went to Sekkatei, the traditional Japanese
place. I had purchased my dinner in advance (one big lodging/lift ticket/meals
package), so there were some meals designed for those tourists with the
"dinner voucher." I got the hot pot type meal, which was around 5
courses. The first ones were scary. Raw things I didn't recognize. Once again,
octopus is very chewy. I didn't really enjoy those dishes, and I was trying to
be open-minded. There was a table of Australian guys near my table, and they
were very suspicious of the food. I think one guy wanted to check the place
out, and the others just wanted burgers. They kept looking over at my table and
saw me putting down the raw fish, and I got a "if he can do it, I can do
it" kind of vibe from them. There were two hot pots, cooked at different
times in front of me, so the meal took a long time. I only had my phone with me
for entertainment, so I read the article that Michael Lewis (author of
Moneyball) wrote about his time spent with Obama over the summer. It's a really
good read, but really long (it took me most of my meal to finish it). http://www.vanityfair.com/politics/2012/10/michael-lewis-profile-barack-obama. The hot
pot dishes were very tasty, so overall it was a good meal. Just really long. I
thought I was done at one point, and the waitress put another hot pot in front
of me, lit the little burner, and said it would be ready in 25 minutes. At
least I had time to get hungry again.
I was super tired
afterwards, so I just went to sleep in preparation for the next day. It was
snowing again, so I was hoping our
tracks from that day would be filled in.
For those who
already hate me for getting to go skiing in Japan, you may want to stop reading
here.
I got to the first
gondola around 8:45am after an uninteresting breakfast (American style,
although apparently Japanese think we'll eat salad with any meal). In
accordance with #2 above, I dropped into the first tree run I came across, and
it was deep and fantastic. The snow overnight certainly filled in all previous
tracks. It's hard to say how much fresh snow they had from the whole storm system,
including the night before I arrived, but I would guess around 2-3 feet. The
snow was very light, too - it required no effort to make turns. Like the day
before, it just felt like a dreamlike state where I floated through bottomless
powder, past cool, perfectly-spaced gnarled Japanese birch trees just
completely caked with snow. It was just like the ski movies from Japan. On my
2nd ride up the lift, the Japanese guy next to me asked me where I was from. We
talked a little, but his English was limited. He'd actually been to Mt. Hood and Portland. They asked me what my name was,
and I asked them where they were heading. They pointed to a double-black on the
trail map, and I asked if I could follow them. They said yes (I think). They
were all snowboarders. I got a sense that "it was on," that they were
going to go pretty hard as if we had to prove ourselves. They were much better
than I expected, and pretty much straightlined it down the run (it wasn't
extremely steep or narrow or bumped out, more like a blue-level run with a
bunch of powder). I think I was cocky and ended up losing my balance, my ski
popped off because they didn't set the DINs very high, and the Japanese
snowboarders disappeared down below. I couldn't even put my ski back on real
quick and catch up because my ski was buried in the powder somewhere. I had to
dig around for a while, by which time the others took off. I don't even know if
they noticed that I wiped out. Hopefully not. They probably just thought I
couldn't keep up, which isn't much better. So, I did not represent the US very
well. I can't believe I wiped out on my one opportunity to hang with some
Japanese riders. The deep powder made me forget pretty quickly though. I made
countless laps off of that same lift, just going a little further down the main
run before cutting into the trees. I was still getting mostly untouched powder,
but there was a line at the lift that I had been riding, so I decided to move
on. I went back to the East Mountain and had some good powdery tree runs in
there. I went in for an early lunch, had some ramen with miso broth, and went
back to Mt. Isola, where I stayed for the rest of the day. I stupidly though I
might quit early and hit the onsen before catching the 5pm bus back to Sapporo, but
each run was still deep and I'd say "ok one more." I quit after 4pm.
I didn't count my runs, but it felt like over 20, and I was exhausted. I got a
lot of pictures, but none of me (since I'm by myself). Most of the pictures are
just shots of trees crippled by massive amounts of snow. I couldn't get over
the odd formations, and the unlikely spots where snow accumulated. Because of
the types of trees and disgusting amounts of snow, it just created a scene that
I've never experienced before. Hopefully my pictures capture that, but I'm
guessing they don't.
https://picasaweb.google.com/108933817613007660268/Rusutsu20130221?authkey=Gv1sRgCIvW5NrCi4D1kgE
https://picasaweb.google.com/108933817613007660268/Rusutsu20130221?authkey=Gv1sRgCIvW5NrCi4D1kgE
Unbelievable. That's all I can say. It's been a long time since I've experienced deep bottomless powder. Just floating on snow with no edge contact is one of the best experiences, and it doesn't happen very often.
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