Saturday, May 18, 2013

5/17 Risking Death with Scooters


5/17 Scooters in Chiang Mai
Since arriving in Chiang Mai, I’ve always wanted to try driving a scooter around. Everyone here (and by “here” I mean all of Asia) drives motorbikes around. They’re very mobile in traffic, and super-cheap to rent. It’s actually cheaper to rent a motorbike for a day than to take public transportation in some cases – motorbikes will only cost around 250 baht/day including insurance (250 baht = roughly $8). The problem, however, is that I’ve never driven a scooter and popular opinion online states that Thailand is not the place to begin. Thailand happens to have a disproportionate amount of traffic fatalities, and a good chunk of them involve motorbikes. Nevertheless, Devon and Jordan were game for renting scooters for a day despite our inexperience, so Kai at the hotel front desk had three motorbikes delivered to the hotel. 

 We inspected the bikes and took pictures for future proof that we didn’t scratch them (being optimistic), and then did a little test-drive down the alley. The rental guy was satisfied with my ability to slowly drive in a straight line, so he released the bikes to us and we were on our own. We wanted to drive up Doi Suthep (the large mountain west of the city) and see the big temple again (Jordan hadn’t seen it). The trick was getting out of the city safely, which meant avoiding the main moat road that circles the city. We weaved around through the alleys but finally hit a bigger road that we could no longer avoid. Devon’s face indicated that she was petrified, and I probably had a similar look. We had to make a right-hand turn, which in Thailand means going across traffic. I went first, and turning scooters is surprisingly hard, so I basically just shot straight across the road and parked at the curb on the other side, and then had to merge into traffic. It wasn’t pretty. Devon and Jordan shot across too and met up with me, and we were once again on our way, feeling a little more comfortable after getting into the flow of traffic.
On the way to my apartment to pick some things up, I lost Devon and Jordan. Apparently Devon’s helmet flew off her head and they had to stop and retrieve it. I had made a right-hand turn and then stopped and waited for them, but they didn’t see me as they drove by, so I had to get back onto the road and it was a low-speed chase to catch them. I finally caught them, we turned around, and finally got back on track. The driving from then on got easier, as we got more confident on the scooters.
Driving up Doi Suthep was a lot of fun, with lots of curves, not a lot of traffic, and lots of great views. We spent some time at the temple, saw the dog with drawn-on eyebrows again, and then decided to drive farther up to Bhuping Palace – the winter palace for the king and queen. There was a strict dress code, however, and we didn’t feel like renting clothes, etc. so we headed back down the mountain. When we got back to the town, we headed north to the reservoir, which is where the Thais go during their time off. All around the lake are little stilted bamboo huts, where you can hang out all day and relax and, if you want to, eat fried crickets. We drove back into town under threatening skies, narrowly avoided running out of gas, and returned the bikes just in time before the shop closed.
 
We enjoyed a quick meal and then Devon had to head to the airport. Jordan and Ariel and I went to watch some more takraw and chatted with Lucky again.

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